By the time I walked back through the restaurant doors and was shown to my tiny table for one, I was glad I didn’t cancel my reservation last minute. Hate on me if you want, but I’m a firm believer in canceling plans if you’re not feeling up to them day-of (especially solo plans).
But it was my last night in Edinburgh after a month of traveling solo for the first time in my life, and I hadn’t gone out to a proper solo meal yet. I knew if I didn’t make my reservation, I’d regret not going.
So I went. I sat down alone, ordered myself a yummy holiday cocktail, and scoured the menu for a meal I thought would rival the pastas I enjoyed in Italy the most.
Sure I felt a little awkward sitting by myself, reading through emails to keep myself looking busy while I waited for my food–but after a while I stopped worrying about who was looking at me and started enjoying my quiet space at my table on the outskirts of a bustling restaurant in my favorite city in the world.
It was the perfect full circle moment to end the best month I’ve ever spent, and a lovely dinner date with me, myself and I before heading back home for the holidays.
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Edinburgh surely has no shortage of great food across the city. From lively upscale bars with smoking dry ice cocktails, to cozy little pubs with chunky chips and local beer on barstools, Edinburgh has an incredible selection of all types of cuisine no matter what you’re in the mood for. My goal is to visit as often as I can and try as many new restaurants as possible until I actually move there (it’ll happen if I say it enough, okay?), so for now it’s all food blog roundups from not-long-enough trips until I can make that pipe dream come true.
Below are some of my absolute favorite spots to eat in the city–mostly small restaurants and pubs that serve incredibly cozy comfort meals, but who doesn’t want more of those in their life? Edinburgh does a lot of things right, and their pub game is definitely one of those things. Keep on reading to get inspiration for your next trip to Edinburgh, or just to hear about some really great food in a beautiful city!
1. The Piper's Rest
The first official dinner I got out at a restaurant during my month in Edinburgh was at The Piper’s Rest just off the Royal Mile. One of my friends from high school happened to be visiting with her girlfriend at the same time, so we were lucky enough to grab dinner and catch up–this restaurant was recommended to her by a friend, and I’m so glad we chose it! It’s a super cozy pub with live music, big tables, and delicious food. Think traditional Scottish pub food like haggis, pies, burgers, fish and chips, plus some yummy salads, Mac and cheese, and even breakfast in the mornings.
You can’t go wrong with a steak pie in Scotland, and this one surely did not disappoint. I think its presentation is my favorite out of all the steak pies I’ve ever had: simple, functional, easy to eat and not over-the-top. Just a classic, yummy pie. The chips were phenomenal, as were the drinks, and the desserts were to die for! Their sticky toffee pudding is my second favorite I’ve ever had, second only to one in Belfast! I’d also recommend the Highland Mess, which was smashed strawberries, vanilla and strawberry ice cream, crumbed meringue, strawberry sauce & toasted oats–YUM.
The staff were also extremely accommodating of allergens and made sure they got our order perfectly, which was very comforting! Big points for that.
2. The Queen's Arms
The next night, we went to the Queen’s Arms in New Town, and our dinner there was just as lovely. Another cozy pub, this one a bit smaller with more of an old-timey feel. Lots of dark wood, tucked-away tables, a big bar filled with locals perched on barstools, and gorgeous bookshelves lining the walls. Their menu is smaller and a bit more elevated, but still has all the comforts of your favorite Scottish scran. Their cocktail menu is also incredible, and I believe all of their menus are updated fairly frequently to get a good rotation of new dishes and drinks!
I feel extremely lucky to have dined there when they had this venison tagliatelle special, because it was absolutely delicious. The portion was really big, though, so I could have done with maybe ⅔ of the meal, but the flavors were incredible. They also serve the cutest espresso martini I’ve ever seen (pictured below), and a really good sticky toffee pudding (can you tell I enjoy those?).
3. Arcade Bar Haggis & Whisky House
As a first-time haggis trier, I’m SO glad I went to Arcade Bar for my first haggis experience. Our gin tasting guide recommended this spot to me and my mom specifically because of their haggis, and I’ve never been so satisfied with a recommendation–he totally hit the nail on the head. It’s located on Cockburn Street in Old Town, and it’s a pretty small restaurant with quaint seating and a small bar in the front room (we didn’t see any of their other seating areas). With big windows and cozy mood lighting, it’s a great little spot to people watch in the city as you enjoy your meal!
The menu here is unapologetically Scottish, sticking true to local flavors and dishes all prepared freshly from scratch. Local cheeses and salmon, haggis in almost half of their dishes, a huge selection of teas, and so much more await you at Arcade Bar. My mom and I got the classic haggis dish as well as the deconstructed steak pie and split both meals, and it was a perfect combination of new and familiar flavors. The haggis is served stacked on layers of “neeps and tatties”, or turnips and potatoes, and swims in a gorgeous whisky sauce that totally rounds out the flavor palate of the dish.
For anyone that doesn’t know: haggis is a savory pudding containing sheep's pluck (heart, liver, and lungs), minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, and spices, and is traditionally cooked inside the sheep’s stomach lining. It’s served, however, in many different ways, including atop a tower of food as seen here. If you like meatloaf, you’ll probably enjoy haggis–and when in Scotland, it’s a must to try their national dish!
4. The Newsroom Bar & Eatery
The Newsroom is one of my favorite casual restaurants in Edinburgh–I’ve visited on both of my trips to the city, and the food and drink has been phenomenal each time. I can vouch for the steak and Guinness pie, the breaded mushrooms, the Philly cheese fries, the haggis nachos (!!!), and the Mac and cheese, plus a bunch of cocktails I don’t quite remember the names of–no judging, please.
The restaurant itself is right in front of St James Quarter, and it’s very lively inside, with lots of seating and loud music. Definitely a good choice for food if you find yourself between the New and Old Towns with an empty stomach. Seriously, try the haggis nachos–they blew me away.
5. The Alchemist
The Alchemist is definitely a bougie restaurant and bar, and it’s because they’re all about theatre–located right next to St James Quarter, you take an elevator up to the restaurant and are immediately hit with loud music, lots of people, and moody lighting in a lively space. The menu has an entire section for theatre cocktails, which include crazy drinking apparatuses and dry ice effects (which freaked me out a little bit to drink). You definitely pay for the experience here, as prices are a little steep, but the drinks and food are delicious!
My mom and I (unsurprisingly) had the crispy bao buns which had plant-based duck, miso mayo, spring onion, cucumber, lettuce, and fresh chilli; we also split the Alchemy sharer which featured a selection of crispy buttermilk chicken, tempura prawns, edamame, salt & pepper chicken wings, vegetable gyoza, and padron peppers. They were also serving special winter drinks since it was just before Christmas, and the two we got were super yummy!
6. Teuchter's Landing
We visited this great little gem in Leith one morning before our Hop On Hop Off bus tour–the Big Bus blue line runs through the small town down by the water, but I also stayed in Leith during my month-long visit, so we walked there and hopped on the bus afterward. Regardless of how you get there, Leith is a great little seaside area to explore if you want to get out of the hub of the city for a bit!
We were the first patrons in the restaurant first thing in the morning, so we got our pick of tables. There are a few rooms to choose from, some with cozy fireplaces and comfy chairs which give the restaurant a very homey, lived-in ambiance. The breakfast menu is pretty standard for the UK: scones and jam, English breakfasts, and sausage rolls, plus some seafood options like kedgeree and oysters. I got the smoked kedgeree and a selection of the scones and croissants, and they were phenomenal. I think fresh scones, clotted cream, and jam is one of my favorite things to eat ever, and these were SO good! Definitely recommend.
7. Bundits of Leith
Probably my favorite food I ate during my entire month in Edinburgh was these bao buns from Bundits of Leith. I’ve been getting increasingly more and more obsessed with bao buns as of late, and I swear I’ve never tasted any as good as these. I got the Korean fried chicken (which has Asian slaw and kewpie mayo) and the Hoisin duck (with soy-pickled cucumber, kewpie mayo and crispy chili) - when I tell you those first bites were life changing. Korean fried chicken always has this incredible crispy skin and tender, juicy meat, and it paired perfectly with the marinade; the kewpie mayo is just unbeatable with both buns, too. For a tasty dessert, get the deep fried cinnamon-coated bao with strawberry jam–SO delicious!
Updated April 10, 2024: I've since tried both the haddock and short rib bao as well, and have nothing but good things to say about them both (as usual)!
8. The Devil's Advocate
I went to The Devil’s Advocate when my mom came to visit me around Thanksgiving, and it was one of the spots we’d both been eyeing when planning what we wanted to do during her stay. We had gone to a gin tasting in the early afternoon and were out exploring when we thought we’d stop into a bar for some drinks before dinner, and thankfully we found the only open reservation just in time for us to get there. The DA is located right off of the Royal Mile, down a little almost-hidden street called Advocate’s Close (or up some stairs coming from Cockburn Street). The vibes inside are just unreal–a beautiful, industrial bar in a rustic restaurant with two levels, the top floor overlooking the bottom. They had awesome cocktails and a really yummy grazing board option as an appetizer, which was the perfect midday break we needed before our next meal!
9. Amarone
I visited Amarone during my first trip to Edinburgh, and I loved it so much that it became my first and only repeat restaurant in the city (so far). I always try to make a point to eat at different restaurants so I can try as many different spots as possible, but on my last night in Edinburgh I wanted a yummy meal in a familiar place, so I knew Amarone was the spot for me. It’s a chain that doesn’t feel like a chain–the ambiance when you walk into the restaurant feels a little bougie, so it surprised me to see how affordable the menus were. It’s also right in the center of St. Andrews Square where the restaurants are notoriously expensive, so I consider this a gem.
The food blew me away both times I visited, too. In July I ordered their orecchiette ‘Nduja e salsiccia, which was phenomenal (though it’s on the menu in a different variation now), and most recently I got their bucatini con chorizo, and that was incredible too. I also got their burrata appetizer, which I thought would have been better paired with a crusty bread instead of the super thin, poppadom-esque bread it came with. The burrata itself was incredible though, so don’t let that deter you from getting it!
10. Royal Mile Tavern
If you want great pub food right on the Royal Mile, look no further than Royal Mile Tavern. A crowded pub with whisky barrel tables, rich wood accents, and frames and posters and plaques galore on the walls, this spot is nearly unbeatable if you’re looking for a true Scottish tavern experience.
The food is incredible too, obviously–just look at those bangers and mash! Super filling and insanely yummy. Their menu is pretty big, filled with tons of traditional Scottish food, pub classics, and twists on classics (think haggis tacos). Everything we ate was really flavorful and the ambiance was awesome–friendly people, upbeat vibes, casual setting. A great place to eat or just grab a pint. Tens across the board.
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