I’ve never been a picky eater, but there are certain foods that make even me a little bit cautious. Typically things that still have eyes are a no-go for me, and if it’s squirming, I’m probably not going to eat it. I didn’t think I’d find anything in Scotland that would make me hesitant to try, until I remembered what iconic food the country is known for. If you’re not a meat-eater, or are super easily squeamish, you might want to steer clear of this blog post. Otherwise, welcome to the weird, wonderful world of Scottish food–particularly the country’s national dish: haggis.
What is haggis?
The official definition is as follows (per Wikipedia): “Haggis is a savory pudding containing sheep's pluck, minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt, mixed with stock, and cooked while traditionally encased in the animal's stomach, though now an artificial casing is often used instead.”
In other words, it’s sheep guts. Pluck is another term for heart, liver, and lungs, and suet is another term for fat. Mince those up and mix them with some oatmeal and spices, and you’ve got haggis. Sounds super appetizing, right?
It seems pretty daunting, but I promise, it tastes just like ground beef or meatloaf. The spices are so well balanced, and the onion really gives it a hearty flavor that makes it taste like you’re just eating typical ground meat. Haggis is typically served alongside “neeps and tatties” or turnips and potatoes, which are clearly the best side options once you’ve tasted them all together. It’s a classic for a reason.
Where does it come from?
There are tons of potential origins for the word haggis, from French to German to Icelandic, though it’s likely that the Vikings brought the dish and the terminology to Scotland first. It’s believed that the earliest known recipe for haggis came from one of King Richard II’s cooks in 1390, and it became the national dish of Scotland by the late 19th century. Famous Scottish poet Robert Burns even wrote a poem titled “Address to a Haggis” in1786 that many believe led to the dish becoming nationally loved and claimed as their own. As a result, on Burns Night throughout Scotland (January 25th annually), a typical Burns supper consists of haggis, neeps, and tatties (and whisky, of course).
Where should I get it?
Being the country’s national dish, you can find haggis in mostly any restaurant you go to in Scotland. Edinburgh is a wonderful place for it, though, considering the food scene in the country’s capital is pretty incredible. And you won’t just see it prepared one way, either! You can find gritty haggis nachos at pubs within walking distance of beautifully prepared venison haggis at revered fine dining spots. Whatever price, taste, or environment you’re in the mood for, there’s a haggis dish for you somewhere in Scotland.
I have to recommend my first haggis experience now, since it was so incredibly delicious. If you’re in Edinburgh and want to try haggis for the first time, you won’t be disappointed dining at Arcade Bar–its tagline is literally “haggis and whisky house”. It’s right off the Royal Mile on Cockburn Street, and this quaint little restaurant proudly serves up the best haggis in town.
I’d be lying if I said I didn’t agree; beautifully prepared and presented, the aptly named “Robert Burns’ Famous Haggis” comes in a three layer stack: mashed potatoes on the bottom, turnips in the middle, and haggis on top. Order it with the whisky sauce for the ultimate experience–when in Scotland, right?
How else is haggis prepared and served?
I was surprised to find haggis prepared so many different ways, but I guess that should be expected when it’s a country’s national dish. Here are just some of the different variations I’ve seen in Edinburgh:
- haggis nachos
- haggis flavored chocolate (so yummy!)
- haggis chips
- haggis flavored crisps
- haggis toasties (like a grilled cheese)
- fried haggis
Don’t come for me over the haggis chocolate–I had it during a whisky tasting and it was absolutely incredible. There’s no meat in it obviously, just the spices that they use to prepare haggis normally: salt, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, and coriander are commonly used. It has a deliciously spicy-sweet flavor that’s really interesting in a chocolate, and I highly recommend!
This all goes to say that you obviously don’t have to try haggis when you’re in Scotland if you don’t want to–but after getting over the initial hesitation, I’m so glad I tried it and 10/10 recommend you try it as well! For a first time, though, it’s probably best to try it in Scotland itself and not some random restaurant in another country… just to be safe.
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